Size Positive Article - Plus-size fashion finding a niche in India

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Plus-size Fashion Finding a Niche in India

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September 26, 2006

NEW DELHI (AFP) - As waistlines expand in step with India's booming economy and consumer spending, plus-size western clothing stores have found a niche catering to the country's fashion-conscious larger men and women.

The stores are securing an ever growing place in the 20-billion-dollar domestic western apparel market, especially in affluent urban areas, where more than 30 percent of the population is considered to be overweight.

Nisha Somaia, the founder of New Delhi boutique Revolution -- which began selling trendy western clothes for large women in 2001 -- says she opened the shop out to ease her own personal frustration.

"We could always get (Indian) suits stitched," Somaia, who is dressed in a curve-hugging black shirt with a plunging neckline and lace trim of her own design, says, referring to the loose-fitting north Indian salwar-kameez.

But the designer and businesswoman says when she asked for western blouses and trousers, surly salesmen would tell her "'you are extra-large, fashion is not for you'" and send her to the men's section.

"I always ended up looking like I was wearing my father's clothes," she laments, recalling several failed attempts to have sexier clothes made.

Somaia has expanded her business to eight stores in India and one in Dubai, which is home to a significant Indian population.

Turnover skyrocketed from 1.8 million rupees (40,000 dollars) the first year to 90 million rupees in the financial year that ended in March. Chandan Widhani -- himself a plus-size and the co-founder of the store Just My Size, which offers clothing for men and women -- agrees that there had long been little choice for the affluent overweight.

"Our customer is somebody who is obviously from the middle or upper middle class. He's extravagant in spending his money. He's extravagant in living a lifestyle which is full of cheese and junk food and butter chicken," said Widhani, whose clothes cost between 500 to 1,700 rupees a piece.

Beyond specialty boutiques, India's Westside department store chain in New Delhi has launched a plus-size line for women called Gia.

In Mumbai, mega-retailer Pantaloon has launched a plus-size line called All, while the boutique Mustard set up shop in the southern city of Bangalore in 2004 and recently expanded to a location in Hyderabad.

"Five years ago this market was totally nonexistent," says Rucheera Gumber, fashion analyst for retail consultancy Technopak.

"It's not that Indian women have never been fat or not had clothes to wear, but the salwar-kameez has a drawstring and can be adjusted."

Shoppers like housewife Punita Suri are thrilled to be part of the trend.

"I used to be in salwar-kameez, that kind of clothes," Suri explains, adding that she wanted to wear western clothes but felt the styles would not flatter her.

"I used to long for lycra pants. These styles are very comfortable for women like us who are overweight," she adds, clad in a long peacock blue tee-shirt over pants as she goes through the racks at Revolution.

Widhani, who says women in particular were increasingly looking to the west for their work wardrobes, expects annual growth at his four stores of 15-20 percent.

Even those with the option to shop abroad say local retailers offer styles that are better suited to Indians.

"Why am I wasting my pounds there when I can just pick it up here?" asks Nita Jain, who used to do her shopping in Britain.

Catering to a captive market, Indian plus-size retailers say their main advertising is through word-of-mouth.

"The clothes sell themselves -- I don't think what I do is to sell clothes," says Somaia. "Every effort of mine has been about raising self-esteem -- about saying, 'You're all right'."

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